Val di Fassa Without Skis: What to Do on a Non-Ski Day, and What to Do on Shabbat
An ice arena within walking distance of the hotel, snow tubing at 2,160 meters, the riverside walk, a cable car to the Dolomites' balcony, a museum at 3,000 meters, and a day in Bolzano. A guide for grandma, for the toddler, and for anyone whose knee asked for a break.
Anyone who doesn't ski in Val di Fassa won't be stuck at the hotel: an Olympic ice arena within walking distance of the hotel in Alba, a snow tubing field at the top of the Ciampac cable car, a flat trail along the river to Canazei and to Penia, a cable car up to the Sass Pordoi terrace at 2,950 meters, a pool and spa at the hotel, and a day trip to Bolzano or to Val Gardena. Every group has someone who doesn't ski — a grandfather, a mom with a baby, a child who got scared on the first day, or someone whose knee asked for a day off — and there's also Shabbat, when no one skis. Here's what's available, by distance from the hotel.
In brief:
- On foot: Alba's ice arena, the trail along the Avisio
- By cable car, without skis: Ciampac (2,160 m), Sass Pordoi (2,950 m), the Marmolada (3,265 m)
- In Canazei: the tubing fun park, the village center, the Christmas market in December
- At the hotel: heated pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, gym
- A day out: Ortisei 40 minutes, Bolzano an hour (Ötzi), Moena (the war museum)
Within Walking Distance of the Hotel
Alba's ice arena. A few minutes' walk from the hotel stands the "Gianmario Scola" ice arena: a covered Olympic rink that has hosted world hockey championships and the Universiade. Free skating for all levels and skate rental (ID required for children). Hours change when the local team, the "Fassa Falcons," has a game, and going to watch an alpine hockey match is a fine evening in itself.
The walk along the Avisio. From Alba a flat winter trail runs along the river, between snowy meadows and wooden bridges, to Penia, the last village in the valley before the Pordoi Pass, about three kilometers from Canazei. In the other direction the same trail leads to the center of Canazei. It has no climbs, it suits a stroller with large wheels, and in the shaded sections there's ice, so wear shoes with a good sole. This is also the Shabbat walk; for questions about the limits of walking on Shabbat, ask our team on site.
By Cable Car, Without Skiing
Ciampac: at the upper station of the Ciampac cable car that rises from Alba, at 2,160 meters, is "the highest field in Val di Fassa": a free conveyor that carries you up to a tubing and sledding run of about 300 meters, slides, swings, and picnic tables facing the view. Entry is free from age three; you only need a cable car ticket. Here the non-skiing parent spends the morning with the toddler while the rest are on the slope above, and you meet up at noon.
The Dolomites' balcony: from the Belvedere plateau a cable car rises to Sass Pordoi, 2,950 meters. At the top is a broad rock plateau, snow to the horizon, and the Marmolada across the way. The Alba–Col dei Rossi cable car and the Canazei–Pecol cable car carry pedestrians, so you can get there without skis. Opens for the season around December 22.
The Marmolada: from Malga Ciapela a cable car climbs in three stages to Punta Rocca, 3,265 meters, the highest terrace in the Dolomites, with a 360-degree view. At the mid-station, Serauta, at about 3,000 meters, is the Great War Museum: on this front, inside the glacier, the Austrians and Italians fought in World War I, and the museum, rebuilt in 2015, tells the story in a way children remember too. Skiers reach it on skis via Arabba; for non-skiers the drive is long in winter, because the Pordoi Pass is closed, so this is a trip to plan ahead. How to get on each cable car.
In the Center of Canazei
The center of Canazei is a short drive away: a main street with shops and cafés, and across from it the Canazei fun park: a fast tubing run of about 400 meters with a lift (from age five), a small conveyor run for toddlers, and rental of traditional wooden sleds. In December and early January the public park hosts the "Maitin" Christmas market, wooden huts of local producers, a covered pergola, and performances (last year from December 5 to January 4).
Guided Snow Walks
The valley's tourist office runs a daily program of guided snowshoe walks in half a day: to the Pordoi Pass, the Sella Pass, the Pordoi Pass, or Val Monzoni, depending on snow conditions, with an evening version too. On your own: Val San Nicolò near Pozza, about an hour's flat walk among snowy huts.
Spa
The hotel itself: a covered heated pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and gym, plus massages for muscle recovery by prior arrangement. For those looking for something bigger: QC Terme Dolomiti in Pozza di Fassa, ten kilometers from the hotel, a 4,000-square-meter mountain spa on sulphur spring waters with outdoor pools facing the Catinaccio. Good to know: this is a mixed spa open to the general public.
A Day Outside the Valley
- Ortisei and Val Gardena, about 40 minutes: a well-kept wooden village, a pedestrian center, and a woodcarving tradition.
- Bolzano, about an hour: the city of Ötzi, the 5,300-year-old Iceman, at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (closed Mondays except in December). Until January 6, the large Christmas market in Walther Square, the most famous in Italy.
- Moena, at the mouth of the valley: the "La Gran Vera" museum on the Great War in the Dolomites, reconstructed trenches and dioramas, from age eight.
- Trento, about an hour and a half: a Renaissance city with a castle and cathedral.
And What Do You Do on Shabbat?
There's nothing to invent here: Shabbat in the mountains is the true rest of the week. Prayer with a minyan at the hotel, a long meal, the walk along the river in the snow, an afternoon nap, a class, the third meal facing the mountains as the sun sets behind the Sassolungo. Anyone who comes for a week gets five days of skiing and one day when no one is in a rush to get anywhere. Most families end up saying it's the day they remember. The complete guide to a kosher vacation.
What suits the non-skier in your group? Talk to us at Har Tayarut.
What is there to do in Canazei without skiing?
An Olympic ice arena in Alba, a snow tubing field at the top of the Ciampac cable car, a flat trail along the river, a cable car to Sass Pordoi at 2,950 meters, a pool and spa at the hotel, and a day trip to Bolzano or Ortisei.
Can you ride the cable car without skis in Val di Fassa?
Yes. The Alba–Col dei Rossi cable car, the Canazei–Pecol cable car, and the Sass Pordoi cable car carry pedestrians, as does the Ciampac cable car up to the Ciampac park.
What do you do on Shabbat during a ski vacation?
Prayer with a minyan at the hotel, meals, a walk along the river, an afternoon nap, and a class. There's no skiing on Shabbat, and anyone who comes for a week gets five days of skiing and one day of rest.
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